Whiskeys Sourmash Smokehouse

(Makes about 1 1/2 cups)

  1 medium onion, peeled & quartered
  1 cup ketchup
  2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  5 tablespoons molasses
  1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (Tabasco)
  2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
  1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke (optional)
  2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  1 medium garlic clove, minced (1 tsp.)
  1 teaspoon chili powder
  1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Process onion and 1/4 cup water in workbowl of food processor, fitted with steel blade until puréed and mixture resembles slush (about 5 seconds). Strain mixture through fine mesh strainer into liquid measuring cup, pressing solids with rubber spatula to obtain 1/2 cup juice. Discard solids in strainer.

2. Whisk onion juice, ketchup, vinegar, Worcestershire, mustard, molasses, hot pepper sauce, black pepper, and liquid smoke (if using) in a medium bowl.

3. Heat oil in large nonreactive saucepan on
medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add garlic, chili powder, and cayenne pepper; cook until fragrant (about 30 seconds). Whisk ketchup
mixture and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently, uncovered until flavors meld and sauce is thickened (about 25 min.). Cool sauce to room temperature before using (can be
covered and refrigerated for up to 7 days).
—Cook’s Illustrated, July/Aug. 2000, p.13.

(Makes 11/2 quarts; 6-8 servings)

  10-12 medium lemons, scrubbed well,
  halved pole to pole, all halves sliced thin
  1 1/4 cups sugar
  Pinch of salt (optional)
  5 cups of cold water

1. Mash lemons and sugar (& salt, if using) in large, deep bowl or saucepan with potato masher or wooden spoon until lemon slices give up their juice, sugar is dissolved, and juice is thickened to syrup consistency (about 4 minutes).

2. Pour half the lemon slices and syrup through large sieve over bowl or saucepan; press on solids with masher or back of wooden spoon to release as much liquid as possible.

3. Discard solids; transfer liquid to serving pitcher. Repeat process with remaining lemon slices. Stir in water until blended. Chill well and stir to blend before serving, over ice if desired.
—Cook’s Illustrated, July/Aug. 1998, p.21.

(Serves 6)

Topping:
3 pints strawberries, hulled (1 pint crushed w/potato masher or fork, 2 pints quartered)
6 tablespoons sugar

Shortcakes:
  2 cups all-purpose bleached flour
  1/2 teaspoon salt
  1 tablespoon baking powder
  3 tablespoons sugar, plus 2 tablespoons
    for sprinkling
  1 stick frozen, unsalted butter
  1 egg, beaten
  1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon half-and-half
  1 egg white, lightly beaten

1. Mix crushed and quartered berries with sugar in medium bowl; set aside while preparing biscuits (or up to 2 hours).

2. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position; heat oven to 425° F. Mix flour, salt, baking powder, and 3 tablespoons sugar in medium bowl. Using large holes of box grater, grate frozen butter into dry ingredients. Toss butter with flour to coat. Use pastry cutter to finish cutting butter into flour. Or scoop up coated butter with both hands, then quickly rub butter into dry ingredients with fingertips until most of butter pieces are size of split peas.

3. Mix beaten egg with half-and-half; pour into flour mixture. Toss with fork until large clumps form. Turn mixture onto floured work surface and lightly knead until it comes together.

4. Pat dough into 9” x 6” rectangle, 3/4” thick. Flour 23/4” biscuit cutter; cut 6 dough rounds. Place 1” apart on small baking sheet; brush dough tops with egg white and sprinkle with remaining sugar. (Can be covered and refrigerated up to 2 hours before baking). Bake until golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Place baking sheet on wire rack; cool cakes until warm (about 10 minutes).

5. Split each cake crosswise; spoon a portion of the berries and then a dollop of whipped cream over each cake bottom. Cap with cake top; serve immediately.
—Cook’s Illustrated, May/June 1997, p. 19.

(Makes one 8” skillet of bread)

  4 teaspoons bacon drippings or 1tblsp.
  melted butter and 1 tsp. vegetable oil
  1 cup yellow cornmeal (stone ground)
  2 teaspoons sugar
  1/2 teaspoon salt
  1 teaspoon baking powder
  1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  1/3 cup rapidly boiling water
  3/4 cup buttermilk
  1 large egg, beaten lightly

1. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position and heat oven to 450° F. Set 8” cast-iron skillet with bacon fat (or vegetable oil) in heating oven.

2. Measure 1/3 cup cornmeal into medium bowl. Mix remaining cornmeal, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in small bowl; set aside.

3. Pour boiling water all at once into the 1/3 cup cornmeal; stir to make a stiff mush. Whisk in buttermilk gradually, breaking up lumps until smooth, then whisk in egg. When oven is pre-heated and
skillet is very hot, stir dry ingredients into mush mixture until just moistened. Carefully remove skillet from oven. Pour hot fat into batter and stir to incorporate, then quickly pour batter
into heated skillet.
4. Bake until golden brown, about
20 minutes. Remove from oven and
instantly turn cornbread onto wire rack;
cool for 5 minutes, then serve
immediately.
—Cook’s Illustrated, May/June 1998, p. 19.

Alder: Traditionally used in the Pacific Northwest to smoke Salmon, alder also works well with other fish. It has a light, delicate flavor with a hint of sweetness.

Apple & Cherry: Both produce a slightly sweet, fruity smoke that’s mild enough for chicken or turkey, but capable of flavoring a ham.

Hickory: Hickory is the king of the woods in the Southern barbeque belt, as basic to the region’s cooking as cornbread. The strong, hearty taste is perfect for smoking all meats, especially pork shoulder and ribs.

Maple: Mildly smoky and somewhat sweet, maple mates well with poultry, ham, and vegetables.

Mesquite: The mystique wood of the past decade, mesquite is also America’s most misunderstood wood. It’s great for grilling because it burns very hot, but below average for barbecuing for the same reason. Also, the smoke taste turns from tasty to bitter over an extended cooking time. Few serious pitmasters use mesquite, despite a lot of stories about its prevalence in the Southwest.

Oak: If hickory is the king of barbeque woods, oak is the queen. Assertive but always pleasant, it’s the most versatile of hardwoods, blending well with a wide range of flavors. What it does to beef brisket is probably against the law in some states.

Pecan: The choice of many professional chefs, pecan burns cool and offers a subtle richness of character. Some people call it a mellow version of hickory.